Let's Talk Tubeless!

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More and more bikes are coming set up “tubeless compatible” - what does that mean, and what do I need to know to use it? We’ll answer all those questions for you in this blog!!

Since their invention in 1887, bike tires remained fairly unchanged for decades: an inner, inflatable tube that offers flotation for a smooth ride and efficiency for a fast one encased in an outer layer of grippy rubber that provides traction and protection against flats.

That was until 1999, when the first tubeless tire system for bikes was created. Tubeless was first heavily adopted amongst mountain bikers, but this innovation has since expanded to cyclocross, gravel, and even traditional road bike segments.

Tubeless tires feature the same general cross-section as a conventional clincher, but without an inner tube. Instead, a layer in the tire casing or liquid sealant is used to make the tire impermeable to air. The rim and tire beads have a different shape than conventional clinchers, with interlocking profiles that form a seal under pressure—much like how a sandwich bag closure works.

The rim bead isn’t the only difference in the wheels themselves. Because tubeless tires hold air, the rim bed needs to be sealed completely. Tubeless tires also offer the ability to run lower air pressure for a better grip and more comfortable ride, are much more resistant to flats, and the tire is less likely to separate from the rim if you do flat. But that all comes at a cost: Tubeless systems can be the heaviest of the three (especially for mountain biking). They can also be somewhat difficult to set up initially, and while flats are far less likely, if you do get one, field repairs tend to be messy and take longer than conventional clinchers.

Today, tubeless is the dominant style of wheel and tire for mountain biking. But the attributes that make it desirable also hold for gravel and cyclocross riding, and tubeless has even made inroads in performance road systems. The bikes we carry, Giant and Liv, often come equipped with tubeless systems, even though they are road bikes or hybrids. If your bike does come tubeless ready, you can choose to either set it up tubeless, or put tires inside the system and use it just like any other bike tires.

We won’t sugarcoat it: Setting up tubeless tires for the first time can be a frustrating experience. Our mechanics often section off part of 2 different days to get it done. Sometimes it can help to first start with a tube in the tire and inflate it to normal pressure, then leave it for an hour or more. This gets the tape stuck down uniformly to the rim, it pushes all the air bubbles out of the tape, and it seats at least one bead of the tire. Also, if you’re using new tires, it also helps the tire bead soften the kink that results from the tire being stored folded for long periods, which can prevent it from seating.

Sealant automatically repairs most small punctures; your only clue may be a small bit of blueish-white sealant on the tread. If you get a particularly big gash, you have three likely fixes: plugs, a patch, or a tube. It’s best to carry all three. If your sealant is relatively fresh, Curiak says one or two tire plugs usually do the trick for most medium-size punctures. For large cuts like a sidewall tear, all kinds of patch materials will do: Duct tape, old leather or rubber. Patches to us are a less permanent fix, and eventually you will need a new tire. If a patch won’t work, you can always install a tube.

To cut down on flats, top off your sealant regularly (every 3 or so months). You can also shake the tire side-to-side to see if you can hear it sloshing around. If you leave the bike standing for more than 6 months and everything has dried up, pull the tire, clean out the debris, and reinstall fresh sealant. Sometimes, however, pulling the tire like this can stretch the bead out and it won’t seal when you go to put it back. When in doubt, check with your favorite mechanic for advice.

Tubeless tires require slightly different setup techniques and have higher maintenance requirements than conventional clinchers. But for mountain bike and gravel riders especially, the benefits outweigh its finicky nature. For city riders, road riders, and commuters, like many of our customers are, it can be difficult to choose what system to run on your bike.

In our shop, we do our best to educate our customers on all tire systems and let them choose which is best for them. We don’t want to overstate the pros of this system - when it works, it works great and makes people very happy! When it fails, it can be frustrating and expensive. However, the good news is that you can always run tubeless systems and switch to tubes later if you change your mind with no more added cost than the few $ it costs you for a tube.